Applying Mary Douglas’s 'classification under pressure' to the Natural wine movement is a brilliant lens. The idea that sulfur or filtration aren't just technical choices but 'pollutants' in a ritual system explains the fervor of the debate so much better than mere chemistry ever could. It’s fascinating to see how 'purity' becomes the organizing principle when the outside world feels fragile. Great piece!
It was a particularly enjoyable read, I must say, whilst sporting my British Wine Trade trousers! There was a day I would sport them in public, but now only in fenced in family BBQ's.
And in a separate thread, I think I may have been the only person in the world who thought about you during Hamnet in which there is a scene where Will Shakespeare is upbraided for holding his wine glass incorrectly. I wondered if Chloe Zhao was secretly a fan.
I am immediately thrust back in time to the evening of what I like to refer to as “canem crepitu vinum” in a cellar in Tbilisi, at the end of which I was told “you just don’t understand this wine”.
Oh crumbs I remember that. Wasn’t it Cliff’s birthday (I remember we had hats… maybe Horse’s birthday) and the wines got progressively worse. It was the ne plus ultra of dismissive wine wankery. At a progressive temple of “anti-snobbery”
Applying Mary Douglas’s 'classification under pressure' to the Natural wine movement is a brilliant lens. The idea that sulfur or filtration aren't just technical choices but 'pollutants' in a ritual system explains the fervor of the debate so much better than mere chemistry ever could. It’s fascinating to see how 'purity' becomes the organizing principle when the outside world feels fragile. Great piece!
Thank you. It’s fascinating how this seems to have struck a nerve with people. Mary Douglas was extraordinary
It was a particularly enjoyable read, I must say, whilst sporting my British Wine Trade trousers! There was a day I would sport them in public, but now only in fenced in family BBQ's.
What a wine trade gentleman wears in the privacy of his own BBQ is entirely a matter for him! Thank you for your kind comment
Spoken like a true presbyterian!
And in a separate thread, I think I may have been the only person in the world who thought about you during Hamnet in which there is a scene where Will Shakespeare is upbraided for holding his wine glass incorrectly. I wondered if Chloe Zhao was secretly a fan.
This is SO good. I need to watch!
I am immediately thrust back in time to the evening of what I like to refer to as “canem crepitu vinum” in a cellar in Tbilisi, at the end of which I was told “you just don’t understand this wine”.
Oh crumbs I remember that. Wasn’t it Cliff’s birthday (I remember we had hats… maybe Horse’s birthday) and the wines got progressively worse. It was the ne plus ultra of dismissive wine wankery. At a progressive temple of “anti-snobbery”
It was! I will send you the photograph. Still makes me laugh. I actually rather liked said winemaker. And am always grateful for the anecdote.