We were the future, once.

In 2003 I was asked to interview Matthew Jukes, who died last week. This is what I wrote twenty three years ago.

In the autumn of 2003 I was asked if I wanted to interview the country’s most exciting wine writer. If I’m honest, I didn’t.

Matthew Jukes was cleverer, harder-working, more successful, and handsomer than me. And he had fabulous hair. But none of it mattered when we met. Matthew managed to tell me the rudest anecdote I’ve ever heard (about himself), inad…