The red-trousered oenophilist

What connects wine merchants' trousers with the online Dopamine Economy?

One winemaker calls them “plonkers”. While a journalist suggests the wine business is a “bastion” of them. Another concedes that when it comes to Bordeaux, “they know a thing or two”. Although a Bordeaux winemaker suggests they might have voted for Brexit. A critic agrees, along with “a few old duffers”.

What is the thing of which these wine luminaries s…