Old is beautiful

Why older is better when it comes to the vines that make claret

On one side of the Place de la Victoire in Bordeaux city there is a famous archway leading to rue Ste-Catherine. It’s the longest pedestrianised street in Europe. There is a bronze and red marble column to honour viticulture and winemaking. And the other side of the square there is a cast-iron pergola set into the wall of one of the grand buildings in t…