In the bleak midwinter

When you open a bottle this weekend, how warm - or cold - should it be?

In the Bond film Goldfinger, James suggests that his champagne, Dom Perignon 1953, should be served at no more than 38 degrees Fahrenheit.

That’s about 4 degrees centigrade. Wine critics don’t agree on much. But they universally agree 4 degrees above freezing is far too cold for Champagne. (Opinion among critics is more divided on his serving technique.)